Without These Beautifully Bizarre Badlands, the National Park Service Might Not Exist
Where the buffalo roam and the badlands earn their name.
THE STRETCH OF INTERSTATE RUNNING FROM Minneapolis, Minnesota, through the heart of the North Dakota Heartland is fantastic if you’re big into grain silos and livestock. Otherwise, nobody’s confusing a drive down I-94 with one of America’s most scenic routes.
Then, out of the blue, it happens: About an hour east of the Montana border—and a seemingly endless four hours from Fargo—the Earth drops out from under the highway. Where endless grass once stretched to the horizon, craggy, tree-dotted canyons flank the road. Petrified forests and river washes spread out between them, and mountains somehow appear out of nowhere.
This is how you’ll know you’ve reached Theodore Roosevelt National Park, a plains-state paradise often forgotten in the world of Glaciers and Yellowstones. The three-unit park is surprising not just in its grandeur, but also in its very existence in a state few know much about beyond accents and outdated movie references.
But if there’s any reason to meander down I-94 through North Dakota, Theodore Roosevelt National Park is it. The park is broken down into three different units: North, South, and Elkhorn Ranch. The latter is home to Roosevelt's historic old ranch home and little else (although history buffs will find themselves. But the South and North Units combine for one of the most unexpected experiences in the Midwest.
Where is Theodore Roosevelt National Park?
Theodore Roosevelt National Park sits in western North Dakota about an hour from the Montana border. The closest towns are Medora, which sits just outside the park’s South Unit, and Watford City, which sits about 20 minutes from the North Unit.
The best time to visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Essentially, visit in any season other than winter, when the weather gets notoriously brutal. (In fact, some—aka us—would argue that North Dakota experiences worse winters than anywhere else in the US.) Intense snow, wind, ice, and road closures will likely prevent you from visiting not just Theodore Roosevelt National Park, but the whole damn state.
Summertime in the park tends to be better, with temperatures hanging out in the 70s and 80s—but the occasional freak thunderstorm can throw off your plans just as quickly as a blizzard. For ideal conditions, visit in late spring or early fall (or late April through September) when temperatures are pleasant, roads are open, and bad weather won’t ruin your time in the badlands.
Take a scenic drive through the bison-filled South Unit
The best way to see the park’s popular South Unit is along its 36-mile loop drive, which starts just after the Visitors Center in the western town of Medora (come for the pitchfork-fried steak, stay for the musical!) and continues through most of the park. You’ll roll through fields dotted with prairie dogs, under buttes towering into the blue sky, and along ridges standing over the jagged badlands.
The best spot for pictures along the 90-minute ride is at Boicourt Overlook, where a short walk over an easy trail takes you to a sprawling view of the park. If you’re up for a little climbing, stop at Buck Hill for a half-mile hike to the South Unit’s highest point. There’s a better-than-average chance your drive will be delayed by a herd of bison, but just remember the loop drive is all about the journey, and sitting in traffic behind slow-moving bison is an experience you’re unlikely to have again.
The best spot for pictures along the 90-minute ride is at Boicourt Overlook, where a short walk over an easy trail takes you to a sprawling view of the park. If you’re up for a little climbing, stop at Buck Hill for a half-mile hike to the South Unit’s highest point. There’s a better-than-average chance your drive will be delayed by a herd of bison, but just remember the loop drive is all about the journey, and sitting in traffic behind slow-moving bison is an experience you’re unlikely to have again.
When you’re ready to get out and stretch your legs, the South Unit offers the most trails of any part of the park. For something otherworldly, head down the Coal Vein Trail, where you’ll step past steaming patches of dark rock marking large stores of coal. It’s perfectly safe as the coal isn’t burning, but if you catch the trail after a rainstorm, steam still rises out of the ground. Think of it as a little slice of Iceland on the prairie.
For multi-colored views of the park’s signature Painted Canyon, climb down into the Painted Canyon Trail. The one-mile hike lets you delve into steep, desert scenery, and only takes about half an hour to complete. Though you can reach it from Loop Road via a few other trails, it’s still best visited by driving about 10 minutes east on I-94 from Medora and starting at the Painted Canyon Visitors Center.
If you’re feeling strong and want to see some of the park’s more unusual offerings, drive 25 minutes from Medora to the Petrified Forest Loop trailhead. The 10-mile loop takes you through the South Unit’s best scenery, trekking past fallen petrified trees, along grassy meadows, over the badlands, and upriver washes at the bottom of imposing canyons.
See the views that inspired the creation of the National Parks Service
The North Unit is smaller than the South, but far more dramatic. Located about 45 minutes north, the Little Missouri River meanders through deep green canyons, along golden cliffs, and up into soft scenic mountains.
The North Unit has fewer trails and can be done in one long day trip. The Caprock Coulee Nature Trail is the park’s signature hike, a 4.3-mile jaunt that technically begins just off the park’s main road—but do yourself a favor and go a little past the official trailhead to the River Bend Overlook, where you’ll see the views that inspired the Bull Moose to preserve the land in the first place. Starting the trail here effectively saves the best for last and makes the hike an experience that just keeps getting better the further you travel.
The Caprock Coulee starts atop the Little Missouri River and takes you through the North Unit’s foothills, inside a canyon, and up the mountains that stand over the badlands and river valley. Every climb brings you to a viewpoint that’s more jaw-dropping than the last, so much so you’ll barely notice the walk takes you almost three hours. No trail in either unit comes close to the scenery you’ll see along Caprock Coulee, so plan to hit it early before the crowds join you.
Along the park’s main road, stop off and see the Cannonball Concretions a few miles in. The mysterious, spherical rocks look almost like they were shot into the side of the butte and offer a quizzical look at the geology of the region. They sit right next to a field of prairie dogs too, making it the North Unit’s best roadside stop.
To experience the whole North Unit on foot, hit the Buckhorn Trail. You can pick up the 11.4-mile loop right past the visitors center and take it through all the scenery that makes the North Unit so cool. The views aren’t quite what they are around Caprock Coulee, but if you’re looking for an all-day hike, this is your best bet.
Stargaze, kayak, and cross-country ski through the badlands
Aside from hiking and driving past fields of roving bison, Theodore Roosevelt National Park also comes with some other worthy outdoor fun, from cycling and laid-back fishing in the Little Missouri River to horseback rides through the badlands. When the weather is clear, the park also has some pretty solid dark skies, which locals celebrate during September’s Dakota Nights Astronomy Festival with weekend star parties, educational lectures, and more. And if you do deign to visit during the winter, prepare accordingly: the park gets an average of 30 inches of snow per year, creating ideal conditions for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Just keep in mind that there are no designated trails for either, so it’s best to embark on those journeys only if you’re a seasoned cold weather pro.
Where to stay near Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Whether you’re passing through on a long road trip or coming from Bismark, home to the nearest airport, you’ll likely notice one thing about Theodore Roosevelt National Park: there ain’t much else out here. So it goes in North Dakota! As far as accommodations are concerned, your best bet is to either reserve a campsite—there are just three inside the park—or head to the aforementioned town of Medora, which sits just minutes from the entrance to the South Unit. There, you’ll find a few Airbnbs, a few affordable hotels and motels, and upscale lodge Spirit of the Badlands, with intimate suites and spectacular views out across the landscape.
Aside from a single campsite, Jupiter, the only places to stay near the North Unit are found in Watford City, which, we must admit, isn't quite as exciting as the South Unit's fun, Western-themed town. But you can make a full-day field trip north, then cap it off with a hearty steak and cool sunset back in Medora. Whatever you do, just be sure to make reservations far in advance, lest you maroon yourself in the badlands for the night.